But this roughout work leave deep grooves and after you get close to the shape you need, switch to a finer bit to cut off all those grooves, then finally a sanding or diamond bit. GreatNeck removes wood fast, but don’t bury the bit in too much or it will kick like a mule. Powerful tools like GreatNeck is great for knocking out bigger wood sections and a dremel cutter for the small channels and cutting in side pockets. GreatNeck and Kutzal tools and other also come in ¼” and that is too large to fit into your machine. The Dremel takes less or equal 1/8” diameter bits. They are cheap enough to buy several and hang them on a nail where you like to carve. You can buy the blade with any numbers of teeth per inch, then feed the blade through a small hole and reassemble the saw for blind cutouts. It’s blades are reversible, end-to-end and cuts with the push or pull stroke. Coping sawīelieve it or no, for small carving jobs, rocking the cut around a curve, short chunks, the coping saw is the best, economical and quiet tool. Moreover, I always tend to block the vent holes on my Dremel when I use it without the flex shaft, while trying to steady it. The flex shaft doesn’t weight as much, and is way easier to control if you can hang the power tool above your workspace instead of leaving it sitting on the counter. Having a flex shaft makes work much easier. If you use the router, make sure the attachment and length of bits allow routing to proper depth. The only problem is the router base sometimes not allows the bit to plunge deep enough into the wood to get to the required depth. Just go slow and don’t try cut too much material at a time and it should do just fine! Saved me from buying a full-sized router that would be overkill for what routing needs I have. It’s perfect for light work: enlarging pickup cavities, making pickguards, etc. It helps you control the carving depth pretty well. On nice and flat surfaces a small “Dremel router base” tool works great when cutting wood, plexiglass and plywood.
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